LG washer “LE” error
Let me start with a disclaimer. While I've been a journeyman ticketed technician since 1997 and repairing appliances professionally for nearly 20 years, I am not a professional writer nor am I a guru web designer, so what you see is what you get...I hope it will suffice.
So let's begin. If your washer has begun displaying this particular error, you likely are asking “what does LE mean and why is my machine displaying it" ? Well, “LE” is an abbreviation for “Locked Motor Error”.
NOTE: Fault codes are not a foolproof system. Never assume or let one tell you that a part has failed based on a displayed fault code.
As to why your machine has started to display this code, there are a couple of reasons, the most common being too much or the wrong type of detergent. I will tell you LG describes this error as being displayed for the following reasons....
LE: LOCKED MOTOR ERROR
• The connector (3-pin, male, white) in the MOTOR HARNESS is not connected to the connector (3-pin, female, white) of STATOR ASSEMBLY.
• The hall sensor is out of order/defective.
If one where to take this definition/explanations literal, you'd be fixing/tracing wires, changing RPS/hall sensor assemblies forever. What they fail to mention is the issue of suds, That is what this blog is intended to address, so let's begin.
These washers only uses 3.8 litres (1 U.S. gallon) of water. If one add’s too much soap, bad things are going to happen: The following is all based on my nearly 20 years professional experience, thus my professional opinion.LE: LOCKED MOTOR ERROR
• The connector (3-pin, male, white) in the MOTOR HARNESS is not connected to the connector (3-pin, female, white) of STATOR ASSEMBLY.
• The electric contact between the connectors (3-pin, male, white) in the MOTOR HARNESS and 4-pin, female, white connector in the MAIN PWB ASSEMBLY is bad or unstable.
• The MOTOR HARNESS between the STATOR ASSEMBLY and MAIN PWB ASSEMBLY is cut (open circuited).
• The hall sensor is out of order/defective.
If one where to take this definition/explanations literal, you'd be fixing/tracing wires, changing RPS/hall sensor assemblies forever. What they fail to mention is the issue of suds, That is what this blog is intended to address, so let's begin.
You MUST use "He" (High Efficiency-Low Suds) type detergent AND use the correct amount. Nearly all washers today should use "He" (high efficiency - if you don't know if your detergent is or not, look for the symbol shown below..if it's not on the package it is not "He") and in my opinion even using less of non-high efficient detergent is unacceptable.
Nearly all brands of "He" detergent have incorrect instructions.
The correct amount is as follows: of course the amount of soil on the items is always the main factor…but most “urban” dwellers don’t typically get very dirty (in generalizing) so…as a rule
He: (2) Tablespoons per loadHe 2X: (double concentrated) : (1) Tablespoon
He 3X: (triple concentrated): (1) Teaspoon
By following these suggestions you will reduce or prevent several undesirable side effects such as:
1) Musty odour – Foul smell inside washer
2) "LE" Error/Interrupted Cycle
3) LONG Cycle Times (longer than time displayed…sometimes very long, which by the way is “estimated” NOT actual)
4) Insufficient cleaning/poor rinse & spin results
5) Small water leaks from the air vent behind the washer or at the front door gasket
6) Damaged hall effect sensor, aka RPS-rotor position sensor (usually only 2007 or older LG washers)
7) Reduced spin speeds (laundry not spin-dried effectively or not at all)
8) Premature wear of the tub bearing and spider gear assembly...worse case scenario, but precedents have been documented (due to excessive vibration caused by suds).
Most consumers do what is commonly considered normal or the right thing to do, (subjective I know, but for the sake of argument I’ll generalize) which is to follow directions on the detergent label. In my opinion those directions should be entirely disregarded…they do sell detergent after all…the more you use the better for their sales, right ?
Additionally, in many LG washers the liquid dispenser cup (blue cup) has a "MAX" line on the white siphon cap. (The image provided is an example only, it may differ depending on your model)
This is a mistake on LGs part (in my opinion) since this "MAX" line has nothing to do with measuring detergent and should not be used as a guide for determining correct detergent amount. The "MAX" line indicates how much liquid must be in the blue dispenser cup before it dispenses from the bottom of the cup.
This is a very frustrating mistake that gives owners (as well as myself trying to explain) much grief.
After three months (again depending on usage) of incorrect type of detergent or incorrect amount of the correct detergent used--musty odour begins to occur. (worse if one primarily washes with cold water)
After more than two years a significant amount of soap/dirt scum has accumulated in the washer. Odour causing bacteria flourishes on this build-up. (This is more evident when primarily using cold water washing and leaving the washer door closed after use in a dimly lit environment)
It is crucial to remove this slimy residue (as is usually mentioned in the owners guide under “maintaining your washer", or “cleaning”).
Most manufacturer's suggest operating your washer periodically as a cleaning tip (every 3 months on average) on a "regular/cotton" hot water setting without any items in the machine. If your particular model has a "Washer Clean" option, use it. Pour 1 cup of bleach in the "detergent" compartment of the dispenser...one can substitue with "White Vinegar" though it will not be as effective in my experience. Check your guide for the manufacturers' suggestion.
There are also several product’s one can use called “Washer Fresh” or “Affresh” which are very effective.
Once a washer inner & outer tub has become heavily contaminated normal methods of performing a "WASHER CLEAN" cycle won't be effective. You will likely need to purchase one of the products I mentioned above, or an alternative similar one, and follow these steps...1) Add the entire packet of cleaner directly into the empty basket/tub (no laundry) and close the door
3) Press the “START” button (6) times, this will fill the tub with hot water to the maximum setting when it stops filling
4) Press the “START” button two more times, this will initiate the basket/tub to tumble. After 2-3 hours turn "off
5) Turn the washer back "on". Select the shortest wash cycle (usually "quick wash") and press "START". This will introduce clean water and rinse out the inner & outer tub
This method of "WASHER CLEANING" is not from a service manual but has been the best method I’ve found for cleaning out LG washers after more than a year of incorrect or improper detergent usage.
After this, use the correct amount of "He" detergent outlined above and try to perform a "WASHER CLEAN" cycle every 2 - 4 months using the “clean” option on the control panel to maintain a fresh and what should be an odour free washer. (there are other factors such as drainage, door being closed, dimly lit room etc. that contribute to odours as well)
"NEURO FUZZY WASHING TIME OPTIMIZATION"
Ha Ha ! What it means basically, If excessive suds are detected by the board (which monitors everything including the load on the motor or "how hard it's working" simply put, during rinse & final spin) the "suds stop" will be enabled.
This causes the washer timer/board countdown to stall. The washer makes an attempt to reduce/remove suds (usually a futile attempt) and ends the cycle much longer than was originally shown on the initial estimate displayed.
As I alluded to initially, the “LE” error can also manifest due to a failed “RPS” (hall sensor). In the event the above suggestion does not resolve the “LE” error you likely will need to investigate this possible failure or possible severed/poor wire connections from the board to the hall sensor.
**If you have any hesitation to perform anything suggested here, please contact a professional or post your concern here**
Speaking of professionals, I have a link to the top right of the page for my paid services, click on "Buy Now" to utilize this service.
To summarize “why” these errors occur most often, in the hope you can prevent this from happening in the future. When combining too much detergent and the use of cold washing, (common for folks to add too much because they must see suds) add in the dirt from the items in the wash, as a result this manifest into a scenario of all this grunge build-up as it settle’s to the walls of the outer tub and hoses and the residual build-up of undissolved detergent means every wash the problem grows greater. This is my opinion, based on my experience...but think about it, it makes sense.
Thanks for visiting my fixedappliance blog today. I hope I was able to provide you with some useful information to keep your hard earned money in your pocket and the steps to do-it-yourself. Good luck.
Please feel free to leave feedback or ask further question if anything is not clear or the procedures above do not resolve your particular problem.
Mark M.
Quite often this LE error message is caused by a faulty motor position sensor, which is a weakness in the design. There is an upgraded part and is is quite easy to fix it. If the link comes out look here
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Regards jon
Here is how I fixed my le error code
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